Panama Beach City. We’re right along the Florida panhandle, just before spring break. In fact students begin to arrive today for spring break, Friday, just as we are leaving. High rise condominiums are sprinkled along the beach, alternating with motels, department stores with surfing gear, and restaurants of every flavor. Construction crews are busy with road repair, and we see new buildings (and boarded up buildings) everywhere.

Yesterday we walked along an almost deserted beach, and last night we ate at Dirty Dick’s Crab House, and had another round of she-crab soup, my all-time favorite, with something vaguely Italian, crab lasagna, slathered with cream sauce and marinara. As my mother would say, “Ooofta!” How did I say no to a dessert of bread pudding with brandy sauce and vanilla ice cream? I just said no. What a decadent life we are living.

But yesterday had its moments. Allen had turned the TV on very early, so I awoke to MSNBC’s morning news program chattering softly at 6:30 am. Pat Buchannan had just pulled Dr. Samuel Johnson’s quote out of the 18th Century to say something like, “You know, Hillary’s speech is rather like Dr. Johnson’s quote: ‘A woman making a speech is rather like a dog walking. You’d find it miraculous, but you’d rather they didn’t do it.’” I rose out of bed quite angry. How could the man be so sexist? According to the newspapers, we’re now in a post-racist world, but no one is talking about hidden sexism. Add this to the voodoo doll we encountered in Tallahassie. Very ugly. But without internet access, I can’t register my protest. I’m writing to MSNBC as soon as I can. Why on earth would they let Buchanan say such absurd and hateful things that perpetuate a sexist world view? Surely management has some oversight? They need consciousness-raising!!!

On the positive side, I finished the grant application. Whew! That was tough. The guidelines were very exacting about numbers of words for each question, so there I was, laptop balanced on my knees, tucked away in the Panama Beach City library with its free wireless, chopping out words right and left. More about the Resurrection Project—Furniture Bank when we’re settled in New Orleans.

Today we hit the road again for Mobile, Alabama, perhaps to view the gardens there or visit the museum, and to enjoy a leisurely drive west. We’re one hour closer now to the west, on Central time. It feels good. Make it a good day.

Dreams of the African Queen, Humphrey Bogart and Katharine Hepburn. We saw the actual African Queen yesterday, proudly moored in Key Largo for tourists, the motor looking as battered as ever, the British flag still flying in opposition to the Nazis, a time when good and evil were more sharply defined.

We spent the day ocean fishing on the Sailor's Choice. Pelicans followed us all the way out into the Atlantic, though we stayed close to the reef. Our catch was small, just four little fish, but we got sunburned, smelled the sweet ocean air, saw gulls chasing mackerel, and, on the way back, a rainbow filled the sky. For dinner, ambrosia: She-crab soup in a French bread bowl called boule and fresh, very fresh grouper.

Just before Gordy and Lynda left for snowy Philadelphia, we wandered through the zoo here in Homestead, Florida, a balmy 78 degrees. We saw the most amazing birds in the Asian aviary, as if Florida didn't have enough exotic birds already! I'm wondering if we really are eating Mandarin Duck at Chinese restaurants; those birds are so richly colored that's hard to imagine anyone actually eating one. Another reason to be a vegetarian. But I'll never tire of seeing Florida's egrets, pelicans and ibis.

Last night, I watched the Clinton-Obama debate. What a strategic and passionate discussion! Both did well; both were eloquent. Both tried to provide more details, especially on foreign policy and health care, though the moderators had to step back and just let them talk! Both support better treatment of veterans. Though we still have months to go before the convention, if Clinton wins the nomination, I will be absolutely thrilled. If Obama wins the nomination, I believe he is capable and a good visionary leader, but I cannot help but feel a tinge of sadness. He has good people around him, but so does Clinton. And then the election itself looms in November.

We're leaving this morning for three days back to camping in the northern Everglades. Ah, where's that mosquito repellent! Where's my protector against alligators? Where are Gordy and Lynda to complain about Allen's snoring? It should hit 80 today. Most likely, we'll be without internet again for awhile, but New Orleans is calling. We should be there by March 2, happy to settle for a month there. The writing goes well, and one of my short stories was accepted for publication in May. Hooray! May all go well for you! Beth

On Monday, the sun broke through clouds and a light breeze riffled the palm trees and the water as we strolled along one of Fort Myers’ many canals, this one at Manatee Park. Armed with polarized sunglasses, we scanned the waters and immediately saw little snouts peeking up for a moment or two, then dipping back down. The manatees, we learned, prefer water warmer than 60 degrees, so they clustered together in a cove by the canal. We leaned on the waist high cyclone fence at the observation points to see those noses breaking water, and a glimpse of enormous bellies (they can eat up to 15% their body weight each day), before the manatee sinks to the depths. The manatees can stay underwater up to 20 minutes, but normally they surface about every 2-3 minutes, or every 30 seconds, if they’re very active.

What a mystery of life! These slow-moving manatees have simple needs, eating, resting, and traveling, with a lifespan almost human, 60 years. A park volunteer told us the manatees had nail-covered flippers, vestiges of toes somewhat shaped like those of elephants. Something led these plant-eating air-breathing creatures to stay in the water, those long eons ago, marked only by evolution and the rising and setting sun. Scientists estimate about 3,000 of these creatures remain, the survival of their species threatened by diminished habitat, litter, and speeding boats, though local governments have passed laws that protect the manatee and encourage research.

We followed the wandering paths through Manatee Park to see Red Mangrove trees, King Palms, and the shorter Cabbage Palm with its fibrous trunk, comprised entirely of long strings of golden vegetable fiber. We encountered only one large and very plastic alligator.

Tomorrow we’ll hike through the Corkscrew Swamp Sanctuary, and Wednesday, we fish on the open sea, with projected weather at 75 degrees. I still struggle with access to Internet, but found a coffee shop a few miles away from our condo, and each morning, the writing goes well. Make it a good week!

PS The mystery bird was a Domestic Muscovy duck, but it still looked like a turkey with a red head, thus qualifying it as a tur-duck at least.

Just a quick note to say that Internet access will keep me offline most of the time, though the Lee County Library here in Fort Meyers has lovely wireless access. We got library cards this morning and already can check out up to 50 books!!! Whoopie!!! So far, Allen's digging up books on India in the 1840s for me, and the writing is going well.

I haven't taken any photographs and am not sure that any photo would capture this tropical landscape. The bridges between Fort Meyers and the nearby islands arch up quite high so we can look out over the cays and bays and see ocean. The landscape is flat, rolling green tops of palm trees with a few high rises here and there against a pale blue sky. Balmy weather at 77 to 80 degrees today. Everyone's wearing shorts, and I begin to understand why people come here from everywhere, and not just for the fishing.

We did a real grocery shoppping yesterday as we settle into our 2 bedroom apartment for the month. I actually cooked! Something great, chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts all stir-fried, served with a side salad of arugula (never used that before) with macademia nuts, cucumber and Green Goddess dressing. Ah! All else is well, even though a small green lizard scooted across the living room floor last night. Make it a good week!