May 23, a sunny Sunday in Florence and it's Savonarola's birthday. After a great breakfast of coffee and hot rolls, we headed out to our local Internet point and found ourselves running to a large piazza where a parade was underway. Brightly colored banners, a giant red fleur de lis, one of the symbols of Florence, and trumpeters, drummers, and 'nobility,' all in Renaissance dress, reds, blues, yellows, led the parade to the Ponto Vecchio (old bridge), where rose petals were thrown off the bridge to honor Savonarola.
Serendipity, for yesterday, we had just visited the San Marco Basilica and cloister where Fra Angelico painted his famous murals. Just yesterday, we had stood in Savonarola's old office, study and cell. I saw what was purported to be his bible, a bible from the 14th Century, complete with tiny, very neat marginal notes -- in Latin.
Savonarola, a charismatic preacher, much loved by the people, wanted to end corruption in government. He's famous for his bonfires of the vanities, where even Botticelli threw a few of his paintings. Influential and feared, Savonarola was actually successful in leading the republic, for a time. But support waned (I'm not sure why, no research tools here). The poor guy said he would walk on hot burning coals to prove his integrity, but then he changed his mind. (No kidding!). But it was too late. He was arrested, tried, hung, and burned . . . in the Piazza Signoria. Right where yesterday we saw a Savonarola plaque in his memory. So today, rose petals were thrown to honor his birthday. He remains an enigmatic character, perhaps reflective of the Italian persona. Efforts have been made to canonize him, so far unsuccessful, perhaps because he relied on prophecy a bit much. A mystical, mysterious man. Makes me wonder who else was influenced by Savonarola. Michelangelo? See Botticelli's painting titled Calumny to see his take on the trial of Savonarola.
The murals by Fra Angelico were beautiful, angels with psychodelic rainbow wings, evocative faces, a sense of piety everywhere, the cloister still the same as those old days back in the 15th Century. Sadness mixed with beauty. Happy Birthday, Savonarola!
Hello from Florence. Just two more days here -- and six churches to go.
Be well. When you see roses, think of Savonarola.
Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Sunday, May 23, 2004
Tuesday, May 18, 2004
Each day is so full, it's kind of hard to know where to start. Have we seen Michelangelo's David? Yes, and it's just as spectacular as anyone could imagine. Yesterday we saw Davids by Donatello and Verocchino, each with a different take. And we saw Michelangelo's Brutus, a complex study. Today we visited the Medici chapels, really a mausoleum. What a testament to arrogance and purely too much money.
Yes, I posted pictures . . . just a few from Greece, so hit that button to go explore.
Yes, I heard from the Scrabble ladies (a group e-mail that brought tears to my eyes). And, yes, WO is a variant Old English spelling of "woe" and quite OK to use (I won a game with Allen using WO, but it's pretty hard to play Scrabble without that English language dictionary to challenge entries!).
The crowds are increasing daily here, and Venice is supposed to be even more crowded. I think of home and quiet places, but we did find a used book store with lots of books in English. And we're continuing to read the Herald Tribune with its chilling revelations about the war in Iraq. Be well.
Fondly, Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Yes, I posted pictures . . . just a few from Greece, so hit that button to go explore.
Yes, I heard from the Scrabble ladies (a group e-mail that brought tears to my eyes). And, yes, WO is a variant Old English spelling of "woe" and quite OK to use (I won a game with Allen using WO, but it's pretty hard to play Scrabble without that English language dictionary to challenge entries!).
The crowds are increasing daily here, and Venice is supposed to be even more crowded. I think of home and quiet places, but we did find a used book store with lots of books in English. And we're continuing to read the Herald Tribune with its chilling revelations about the war in Iraq. Be well.
Fondly, Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Sunday, May 16, 2004
With a sense of unreality, we left Rome behind and traveled by bus, just 3 hours north to Siena, a small town about the size of Corvallis, but very different with its hillside, winding, medievally narrow streets, tall buildings, and tucked around the corner, piazzas filled with light. Here the famous paolio is run. Ten riders race their horses around a very large piazza, as fast as they can -- and often violently. The only rule: You can't grab the reins of another horse. Everything else is OK. In fact, the winning horse just has to cross the finish line first. The rider doesn't have to be present!
Here in Siena, we visited a massive Gothic cathedral, nearly as rich as the Vatican, with pink, white and green marble everywhere. The floors were impressive, all inlaid marble with the most elaborate pictures. My favorite was the Liberia Piccolomini, intended to be a library but books were never stored here. Instead, imagine wall to wall murals, painted by Pinturicchio, in pure Renaissance style -- vivid colors, historical motif, and compelling figures. Here in the Liberia we also saw some lovley illuminated manuscripts, some for music scores (play on, musicians!). Could we not admire the mostly Renaissance sculpture, sliding to the Baroque, of Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini? The awkward part about visiting churches as a museum is for some, these places are places of prayer, yet hordes of tourists pour through as well.
After two days at the Bernini Hotel, where I got to pet the resident fat cat, a big black and white kitty, we hit the road again for 10 days in Florence, and that's where we are now, just off the Pitti Palace. We spent this morning touring this massive, 3 story palace, one wing is now a museum, and the other wing still in the apartments that the Medici began. The history is bloody, full of intrigue, murders, betrayals, men with great egos, and ruthless women -- but one redeeming feature is their civic pride that led them to support a court of artists, philosophers, and musicians. So, we saw hundreds of paintings today -- the delicate ephemeral beauty of Botticelli, the anguish and darkness of Caravaggio, the power of Gentileshi, Artemesia that is; and the early Renaissance masters as well, especially Fra Filippo Lippi, with gorgeous reds and blues, a sharp contrast to the darker vision of the Northern Renaissance. Keeping an eye out for links to other countries and cultures, I spotted one Renaissance painting by Reubens (that featured his self-portrait), also featured tulips and carpet from Turkey, helping to popularize the middle class desire for such luxuries. And, the Renaissance didn't cut any corners when it came to showing opulence. No wonder the Baroque was next.
Pam always says don't include too much history, so my one social note is that the women here in Florence, a high fashion capital, are amazingly well dressed (I mean the locals). Think basic black and basic beige for women of a certain age, with just one color, a scarf draped oh-so-casually, and young women wear all the colors of the rainbow. But I think few could afford these fashions; I priced one outfit at Euros 350. Whew! More immediately, appreciate your towels! Here, we have these sheet like cloths, something like a bed sheet, but with a slight waffle texture. They work. They're light weight and quick drying. Did I mention gelato? Home-made ice cream. Very rich. Very good. Ah, time to study. I'm very aware of the term winding down. That means too much work for teachers, but perhaps some time for gelato.
Warm thoughts from Florence.
Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Here in Siena, we visited a massive Gothic cathedral, nearly as rich as the Vatican, with pink, white and green marble everywhere. The floors were impressive, all inlaid marble with the most elaborate pictures. My favorite was the Liberia Piccolomini, intended to be a library but books were never stored here. Instead, imagine wall to wall murals, painted by Pinturicchio, in pure Renaissance style -- vivid colors, historical motif, and compelling figures. Here in the Liberia we also saw some lovley illuminated manuscripts, some for music scores (play on, musicians!). Could we not admire the mostly Renaissance sculpture, sliding to the Baroque, of Michelangelo, Donatello, and Bernini? The awkward part about visiting churches as a museum is for some, these places are places of prayer, yet hordes of tourists pour through as well.
After two days at the Bernini Hotel, where I got to pet the resident fat cat, a big black and white kitty, we hit the road again for 10 days in Florence, and that's where we are now, just off the Pitti Palace. We spent this morning touring this massive, 3 story palace, one wing is now a museum, and the other wing still in the apartments that the Medici began. The history is bloody, full of intrigue, murders, betrayals, men with great egos, and ruthless women -- but one redeeming feature is their civic pride that led them to support a court of artists, philosophers, and musicians. So, we saw hundreds of paintings today -- the delicate ephemeral beauty of Botticelli, the anguish and darkness of Caravaggio, the power of Gentileshi, Artemesia that is; and the early Renaissance masters as well, especially Fra Filippo Lippi, with gorgeous reds and blues, a sharp contrast to the darker vision of the Northern Renaissance. Keeping an eye out for links to other countries and cultures, I spotted one Renaissance painting by Reubens (that featured his self-portrait), also featured tulips and carpet from Turkey, helping to popularize the middle class desire for such luxuries. And, the Renaissance didn't cut any corners when it came to showing opulence. No wonder the Baroque was next.
Pam always says don't include too much history, so my one social note is that the women here in Florence, a high fashion capital, are amazingly well dressed (I mean the locals). Think basic black and basic beige for women of a certain age, with just one color, a scarf draped oh-so-casually, and young women wear all the colors of the rainbow. But I think few could afford these fashions; I priced one outfit at Euros 350. Whew! More immediately, appreciate your towels! Here, we have these sheet like cloths, something like a bed sheet, but with a slight waffle texture. They work. They're light weight and quick drying. Did I mention gelato? Home-made ice cream. Very rich. Very good. Ah, time to study. I'm very aware of the term winding down. That means too much work for teachers, but perhaps some time for gelato.
Warm thoughts from Florence.
Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Tuesday, May 11, 2004
Tuesday afternoon. Still in sunny, springy Rome, though we leave tomorrow for Sienna and the north, perhaps with fewer tourists. We've actually booked ahead for nearly the next two weeks, with 11 days in Florence, the heart of the Renaissance, though so far, we've not been able to set up lodging in Venice. We've been told that as we get into the "season," people have booked even a year ahead, so I'm not sure where we'll be sleeping in Venice, perhaps near a historic canal.
Today is a quieter day after the Vatican Museum yesterday. We walked through long halls filled with Egyptian and Roman antiquties, with few places to sit. I saw too many favorites to summarize, however, I can say that Raphael's "School of Athens" should not be seen in isolation! Normally this famous painting is shown on its own, but it's actually part of a single room filled with wall-to-wall paintings. Even the arches and the ceiling is painted, and somehow it all looks like a harmonious essay, everything fitting together (of course, an English teacher would say that). But big parts of the Vatican look like the Baroque took over and didn't let go. We walked down the Hall of Geography to find literally every inch covered with paintings, murals, gilt scrolls, white marble sculptures and maps of the Italian domain, all arranged geometrically, as if that alone would create order.
The Sistine Chapel was not overshadowed by any other part of the Museum, though. We walked in and could simply stand there, surrounded by hundreds of tourists, but able to stay as long as we wanted. Michelangelo's work is so familiar. He's an icon. I'd almost think what could we see new here? Ah, but the room in its entirety IS new! The entire chapel, just renovated over the last 20 years, allows us to see the ceiling, walls and altar piece as if it were freshly painted. We could see on the two sides of the Sistine Chapel, a double row of large painted murals marching down, one side highlighting key events from the life of Moses, and the otherside, the life of Christ. On the ceiling, selections from Genesis -- most notably, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden. And then, on the back wall, Michelangelo's Day of Judgement, a compelling, swirling composition of judgement that dominates the chapel. The sheer creativity of Michelangelo's mature work takes your breath away and, yes, brings tears to your eyes. Unforgettable. What else is there?
So today is a day for reading, thinking, a little writing. We picked up a Herald Tribune to catch up on the news (depressing), and I have become most creative in doing the daily laundry. Rome has an ordinance that laundry cannot be hung from the front of the building. We just finished reading Niccolo Ammantini's I'M NOT AFRAID and can recommend it highly as a well-written story told from a 9-year-old's point of view, and set in rural Italy.
Otherwise, all is well. I figure there are about four weeks left to Spring term. Am I feeling guilty? Probably not as I'm working pretty hard on notes and thinking about future classes. The news from home is good. Everyone is safe and well on Mother's Day. I miss you all. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Today is a quieter day after the Vatican Museum yesterday. We walked through long halls filled with Egyptian and Roman antiquties, with few places to sit. I saw too many favorites to summarize, however, I can say that Raphael's "School of Athens" should not be seen in isolation! Normally this famous painting is shown on its own, but it's actually part of a single room filled with wall-to-wall paintings. Even the arches and the ceiling is painted, and somehow it all looks like a harmonious essay, everything fitting together (of course, an English teacher would say that). But big parts of the Vatican look like the Baroque took over and didn't let go. We walked down the Hall of Geography to find literally every inch covered with paintings, murals, gilt scrolls, white marble sculptures and maps of the Italian domain, all arranged geometrically, as if that alone would create order.
The Sistine Chapel was not overshadowed by any other part of the Museum, though. We walked in and could simply stand there, surrounded by hundreds of tourists, but able to stay as long as we wanted. Michelangelo's work is so familiar. He's an icon. I'd almost think what could we see new here? Ah, but the room in its entirety IS new! The entire chapel, just renovated over the last 20 years, allows us to see the ceiling, walls and altar piece as if it were freshly painted. We could see on the two sides of the Sistine Chapel, a double row of large painted murals marching down, one side highlighting key events from the life of Moses, and the otherside, the life of Christ. On the ceiling, selections from Genesis -- most notably, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden. And then, on the back wall, Michelangelo's Day of Judgement, a compelling, swirling composition of judgement that dominates the chapel. The sheer creativity of Michelangelo's mature work takes your breath away and, yes, brings tears to your eyes. Unforgettable. What else is there?
So today is a day for reading, thinking, a little writing. We picked up a Herald Tribune to catch up on the news (depressing), and I have become most creative in doing the daily laundry. Rome has an ordinance that laundry cannot be hung from the front of the building. We just finished reading Niccolo Ammantini's I'M NOT AFRAID and can recommend it highly as a well-written story told from a 9-year-old's point of view, and set in rural Italy.
Otherwise, all is well. I figure there are about four weeks left to Spring term. Am I feeling guilty? Probably not as I'm working pretty hard on notes and thinking about future classes. The news from home is good. Everyone is safe and well on Mother's Day. I miss you all. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Tuesday afternoon. Still in sunny, springy Rome, though we leave tomorrow for Sienna and the north, perhaps with fewer tourists. We've actually booked ahead for nearly the next two weeks, with 11 days in Florence, the heart of the Renaissance, though so far, we've not been able to set up lodging in Venice. We've been told that as we get into the "season," people have booked even a year ahead, so I'm not sure where we'll be sleeping in Venice, perhaps near a historic canal.
Today is a quieter day after the Vatican Museum yesterday. We walked through long halls filled with Egyptian and Roman antiquties, with few places to sit. I saw too many favorites to summarize, however, I can say that Raphael's "School of Athens" should not be seen in isolation! Normally this famous painting is shown on its own, but it's actually part of a single room filled with wall-to-wall paintings. Even the arches and the ceiling is painted, and somehow it all looks like a harmonious essay, everything fitting together (of course, an English teacher would say that). But big parts of the Vatican look like the Baroque took over and didn't let go. We walked down the Hall of Geography to find literally every inch covered with paintings, murals, gilt scrolls, white marble sculptures and maps of the Italian domain, all arranged geometrically, as if that alone would create order.
The Sistine Chapel was not overshadowed by any other part of the Museum, though. We walked in and could simply stand there, surrounded by hundreds of tourists, but able to stay as long as we wanted. Michelangelo's work is so familiar. He's an icon. I'd almost think what could we see new here? Ah, but the room in its entirety IS new! The entire chapel, just renovated over the last 20 years, allows us to see the ceiling, walls and altar piece as if it were freshly painted. We could see on the two sides of the Sistine Chapel, a double row of large painted murals marching down, one side highlighting key events from the life of Moses, and the otherside, the life of Christ. On the ceiling, selections from Genesis -- most notably, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden. And then, on the back wall, Michelangelo's Day of Judgement, a compelling, swirling composition of judgement that dominates the chapel. The sheer creativity of Michelangelo's mature work takes your breath away and, yes, brings tears to your eyes. Unforgettable. What else is there?
So today is a day for reading, thinking, a little writing. We picked up a Herald Tribune to catch up on the news (depressing), and I have become most creative in doing the daily laundry. Rome has an ordinance that laundry cannot be hung from the front of the building. We just finished reading Niccolo Ammantini's I'M NOT AFRAID and can recommend it highly as a well-written story told from a 9-year-old's point of view, and set in rural Italy.
Otherwise, all is well. I figure there are about four weeks left to Spring term. Am I feeling guilty? Probably not as I'm working pretty hard on notes and thinking about future classes. The news from home is good. Everyone is safe and well on Mother's Day. I miss you all. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Today is a quieter day after the Vatican Museum yesterday. We walked through long halls filled with Egyptian and Roman antiquties, with few places to sit. I saw too many favorites to summarize, however, I can say that Raphael's "School of Athens" should not be seen in isolation! Normally this famous painting is shown on its own, but it's actually part of a single room filled with wall-to-wall paintings. Even the arches and the ceiling is painted, and somehow it all looks like a harmonious essay, everything fitting together (of course, an English teacher would say that). But big parts of the Vatican look like the Baroque took over and didn't let go. We walked down the Hall of Geography to find literally every inch covered with paintings, murals, gilt scrolls, white marble sculptures and maps of the Italian domain, all arranged geometrically, as if that alone would create order.
The Sistine Chapel was not overshadowed by any other part of the Museum, though. We walked in and could simply stand there, surrounded by hundreds of tourists, but able to stay as long as we wanted. Michelangelo's work is so familiar. He's an icon. I'd almost think what could we see new here? Ah, but the room in its entirety IS new! The entire chapel, just renovated over the last 20 years, allows us to see the ceiling, walls and altar piece as if it were freshly painted. We could see on the two sides of the Sistine Chapel, a double row of large painted murals marching down, one side highlighting key events from the life of Moses, and the otherside, the life of Christ. On the ceiling, selections from Genesis -- most notably, the creation of Adam, and the expulsion of Adam and Eve from the Garden. And then, on the back wall, Michelangelo's Day of Judgement, a compelling, swirling composition of judgement that dominates the chapel. The sheer creativity of Michelangelo's mature work takes your breath away and, yes, brings tears to your eyes. Unforgettable. What else is there?
So today is a day for reading, thinking, a little writing. We picked up a Herald Tribune to catch up on the news (depressing), and I have become most creative in doing the daily laundry. Rome has an ordinance that laundry cannot be hung from the front of the building. We just finished reading Niccolo Ammantini's I'M NOT AFRAID and can recommend it highly as a well-written story told from a 9-year-old's point of view, and set in rural Italy.
Otherwise, all is well. I figure there are about four weeks left to Spring term. Am I feeling guilty? Probably not as I'm working pretty hard on notes and thinking about future classes. The news from home is good. Everyone is safe and well on Mother's Day. I miss you all. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Thursday, May 06, 2004
Rome. A rainy afternoon. We just spent 4 hours exploring the immense Vatican basilica, quite a jump from the ancient ruins of the Roman forum yesterday. The Vatican is a place of history, art and prayer -- so large in scale that the thousands of tourists there seem dwarfed in comparison. We picked up audio guides and wandered freely throughout, although since 1992, a plastic wall guards the Pieta by Michelangelo. No more hammer-wielding assaults! Even with the plastic wall, and standing about 15 feet away, the Pieta is still a marvelous sight for its sheer poignancy and power. Expressive in every line, the austere gray sculpture is compelling. And walking down the giant nave (some 600 feet long) to the altar is also an experience. We stood where Charlemagne was crowned, looked at St. Peter's tomb, and admired the chair of St. Peter made of bronze. Built over many hundreds of years, yet this basilica is full of power and religious authority, and with a kind of cohesiveness, perhaps from the major remodeling begun in the Baroque era. We were surrounded by many different languages. I think tourist season has started in earnest, or perhaps it's just Rome.
Yesterday, we spent most of our time in the Roman Forum, admiring the mammoth ruins there. My favorites were the Arch of Severus under which victorious Romans would parade, bringing booty home from the wars. Some of that booty included prisoners of war, destined to be gladiators or sold as slaves. The Arch of Severus has a moving frieze showing Romans each paired with a prisoner in chains. I don't often think of Rome as a slave-based economy, but it was. The history is fascinating, with tories about gladiator bouts that led to 9,000 dead over 4 days. On the other hand, some gladiators, those who performed well, could earn their freedom and often opened gladiator schools. Enormous sums were won and lost with illegal gambling on the games as well.
We also saw the Temple served by vestal virgins. These women were selected from patrician families between the ages of 6 and 10 and served the temple for 30 years. If the eternal flame went out (a sign of impending doom), they were flogged. If they broke their vow of chastity, they were buried alive as their blood could not be spilled. Was it an honor to serve the temple as a vestal virgin? Probably. The temple remains are beautiful, six elegantly tall Ionic columns on a round base.
But the most moving part of visiting the Forum came quite unexpectedly. We had just finished rereading Shakespeare's tale of Caesar (based on Plutarch's Lives, I tend to forget that Shakespeare drew from history), and then we saw the temple dedicated to Julius Caesar, erected by Augustus in AD 79 to commemorate his death. We stepped inside a little alcove to see the original bricks marking the place where Mark Anthony gave his famous speech, and where Caesar's body was burned, covered by bouquets of cut flowers. Caesar is still remembered here in Rome.
My favorite sight so far is atop the Vittoria, a massive "wedding cake" building, built to rival St. Peter's, with monumental sculptures everywhere. What draws me is atop the two columns, two similar sculptures of a winged woman who holds a laurel wreath and drives a chariot without reins -- four horses appear ready to pull each chariot right into the sky.
News from home is good -- Jane Walker let me know that my office computer is being upgraded, and other family and friends are well. I hope it's not raining where you are, but it's a good afternoon to curl up with a book -- that is, if we all had the time. Be well as spring term winds down. We're here in Rome for another week of touring. Perhaps tomorrow we'll try the Vatican Museum.
Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Yesterday, we spent most of our time in the Roman Forum, admiring the mammoth ruins there. My favorites were the Arch of Severus under which victorious Romans would parade, bringing booty home from the wars. Some of that booty included prisoners of war, destined to be gladiators or sold as slaves. The Arch of Severus has a moving frieze showing Romans each paired with a prisoner in chains. I don't often think of Rome as a slave-based economy, but it was. The history is fascinating, with tories about gladiator bouts that led to 9,000 dead over 4 days. On the other hand, some gladiators, those who performed well, could earn their freedom and often opened gladiator schools. Enormous sums were won and lost with illegal gambling on the games as well.
We also saw the Temple served by vestal virgins. These women were selected from patrician families between the ages of 6 and 10 and served the temple for 30 years. If the eternal flame went out (a sign of impending doom), they were flogged. If they broke their vow of chastity, they were buried alive as their blood could not be spilled. Was it an honor to serve the temple as a vestal virgin? Probably. The temple remains are beautiful, six elegantly tall Ionic columns on a round base.
But the most moving part of visiting the Forum came quite unexpectedly. We had just finished rereading Shakespeare's tale of Caesar (based on Plutarch's Lives, I tend to forget that Shakespeare drew from history), and then we saw the temple dedicated to Julius Caesar, erected by Augustus in AD 79 to commemorate his death. We stepped inside a little alcove to see the original bricks marking the place where Mark Anthony gave his famous speech, and where Caesar's body was burned, covered by bouquets of cut flowers. Caesar is still remembered here in Rome.
My favorite sight so far is atop the Vittoria, a massive "wedding cake" building, built to rival St. Peter's, with monumental sculptures everywhere. What draws me is atop the two columns, two similar sculptures of a winged woman who holds a laurel wreath and drives a chariot without reins -- four horses appear ready to pull each chariot right into the sky.
News from home is good -- Jane Walker let me know that my office computer is being upgraded, and other family and friends are well. I hope it's not raining where you are, but it's a good afternoon to curl up with a book -- that is, if we all had the time. Be well as spring term winds down. We're here in Rome for another week of touring. Perhaps tomorrow we'll try the Vatican Museum.
Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
Sunday, May 02, 2004
It's 9:15 pm, just after Naples dinner time, and we leave tomorrow morning by train to Rome. As fantastic as the whole trip has been, I confess to being VERY EXCITED now. We'll be staying at a bed and breakfast just 5 minutes walk from the Colosseum (apparently b&b's are a little less expensive than hotels here in Europe), but breakfast is included. Allen says not to count on too much of a breakfast, as we are in real Continental breakfast territory -- that is hot coffee and rolls. Here in Naples, some people eat their breakfasts in bars, that is coffee bars. They stand up, talk and munch away on fresh sweet rolls and drink strong coffee, and off they go, on their motorbikes. Chaos quickly ensues.
We're still recovering from our back-to-back visit to Pompei and Herculaneum over two days. Pompei, inundated by clouds of noxious gas and killing hot ash, was buried to a depth of 20 feet, while Herculaneum suffered a hot mud flow which buried it to a depth of about 60 feet. Excavations are still underway at both sites, but imagine Pompei as a town of 20,000 (about 2,000 died in the AD 79 Mt. Vesuvius explosion). Everything lost but a wealth of material to study. I loved the wall paintings, delicate mythological scenes, and rich mosaics, some black and white, some every color. Allen liked the way that traces of daily life were preserved. He was impressed by the 89 fast food joints, looking like they were just ready to serve food to the hungry citizens who wanted to eat on the cheap. The public baths are amazing, Roman baths still ready to use with dressing rooms, steam rooms, pools for bathing, and a frigadarium (think very cold water). Of course, separate baths for men and women. We were also enthralled by the sense of class mobility even in those times, for Pompei was based on a slave economy, yet we were struck by how many slaves became wealthy. One former slave bought a temple in the name of his six-year-old son (Temple of Isis) that made his son automatically a member of the Senate. And, of course, I have some truly wonderful pictures that I'll try to post later.
For now, I'll close by saying you should have been here for the parade we saw last night after dinner -- A religious parade went right by our restaurant to celebrate St. Gennaro festival day. We saw bands, floats, banners, people carrying candles and saints and angels. Truly a wonderful way to say goodnight, Naples!
Be well. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
We're still recovering from our back-to-back visit to Pompei and Herculaneum over two days. Pompei, inundated by clouds of noxious gas and killing hot ash, was buried to a depth of 20 feet, while Herculaneum suffered a hot mud flow which buried it to a depth of about 60 feet. Excavations are still underway at both sites, but imagine Pompei as a town of 20,000 (about 2,000 died in the AD 79 Mt. Vesuvius explosion). Everything lost but a wealth of material to study. I loved the wall paintings, delicate mythological scenes, and rich mosaics, some black and white, some every color. Allen liked the way that traces of daily life were preserved. He was impressed by the 89 fast food joints, looking like they were just ready to serve food to the hungry citizens who wanted to eat on the cheap. The public baths are amazing, Roman baths still ready to use with dressing rooms, steam rooms, pools for bathing, and a frigadarium (think very cold water). Of course, separate baths for men and women. We were also enthralled by the sense of class mobility even in those times, for Pompei was based on a slave economy, yet we were struck by how many slaves became wealthy. One former slave bought a temple in the name of his six-year-old son (Temple of Isis) that made his son automatically a member of the Senate. And, of course, I have some truly wonderful pictures that I'll try to post later.
For now, I'll close by saying you should have been here for the parade we saw last night after dinner -- A religious parade went right by our restaurant to celebrate St. Gennaro festival day. We saw bands, floats, banners, people carrying candles and saints and angels. Truly a wonderful way to say goodnight, Naples!
Be well. Beth
bluebethley@yahoo.com
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